Tourist development ran amok in Candidasa and now there’s shoulder-to-shoulder development, an unattractive proposition for many. The main drawback is the lack of a beach, which, except for the far eastern stretch, has eroded away as fast as hotels were built. Most of the coastline has breakwaters, so you can’t even walk along it. The main drag is noisy and doesn’t get sea breezes.
Despite all this, Candidasa is much less hectic than South Bali and is often as sleepy as the lotus blossom–filled lagoon. Many find it a fine base to explore eastern Bali and there are some good restaurants. It’s popular with divers and snorkellers, although beach-lovers will prefer Padangbai.